This made-to-measure cover will protect and keep the dust off your machine when it’s not in use. It’s fun and stylish, but with a neat handle opening and side storage pocket/s it’s also practical and transportable. It’s also a great way to use up leftover squares or scraps, and the quilting possibilities are endless!
Materials
Work out what size pieces you need to determine if these quantities are enough for your cover. Requirements based on fabrics with a useable width of 112cm (44in).
✦ 50cm (1⁄2yd) outer fabric: used soft denim
✦ 50cm (1⁄2yd) lining
✦ 50cm (1⁄2yd) lightweight calico for backing (this won’t be seen)
✦ 50cm (1⁄2yd) compressed wadding
✦ 25cm (10in) of 1cm (1⁄4in) wide elastic per elasticated pocket
✦ Fabric for patchwork sections: used 5in charm squares
✦ Threads for piecing and quilting
✦ Temporary spray adhesive for fabric
✦ Small safety pin
✦ Denim machine needle
Preparation
All panel measurements include 3⁄8in seam allowances, unless otherwise stated. Press the fabrics before starting.
PREPARATION
1. The first thing you need to do is measure your machine. Taking them in imperial, measure and note down the height, width and depth of your machine, making sure you measure where each is
the maximum for that dimension.
2. The cover is made from a main panel that covers the front, top and back of the machine, and two side panels; a pocket is added to each side panel.
3. For the main panel (front top and back) work with the height, width and depth measurements. Firstly subtract the [finished] width of the patchwork panel you wish to make: Judith subtracted 6 1⁄2in (see 'Patchwork section') step 1. Then to this new measurement add 2in plus 5 5⁄8in (seam allowances & ease). For the length of this panel, add height plus depth plus height (no seam allowances needed).
4. For the side panels, work with the height and depth measurements. To the height 3⁄8in (seam allowance for the top seam); for the depth, add 2in for ease and then add 3⁄8in to each side (seam allowances for the side seams).
5. For the pocket pieces, work with the depth measurement. For a plain pocket, for the depth, add
3⁄4in for ease and then add 3⁄8in to each side (seam allowances for the side seams); for the height of the pocket use 15in. For pockets incorporating a patchwork section you need two outer fabric pieces for each pocket: for each piece, for the depth, add 2in for ease and then add 3⁄8in to each side (seam allowances for the side seams); for the height, for one piece use 10in and for the other piece use
3 3⁄4in, but you might need to adjust depending on the height of your patchwork strip (see ‘Pockets’ Step 2).
CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS
1. From your outer fabric cut the following pieces:
✦ One main panel (see ‘Preparation’ Step 3)
✦ Two side panels (see ‘Preparation’ Step 4)
✦ Pieces for two pockets (see ‘Preparation’ Step 5)
2. From your lining fabric cut the following pieces:
✦ One main panel (see ‘Preparation’ Step 3)
✦ Two side panels (see ‘Preparation’ Step 4)
3. From the backing fabric and wadding, adding 1in all around, cut the following pieces:
✦ One main panel (see ‘Preparation’ Step 3)
✦ Two side panels (see ‘Preparation’ Step 4)
PATCHWORK SECTION
1. Judith used leftover 5in charm squares to make a patchwork section for her main panel. She cut eleven squares into quarters to give forty-four 2 1⁄2in squares. She pieced forty-two of them into a patchwork section three patches by fourteen patches.
2. Right sides together, join the patchwork section to one long edge of the outer main panel. Position the patchwork section so that when it’s fl ipped open to be right side up its long raw edge aligns with one long raw edge the main panel. The short edges of the patchwork section need to match up with the short edges of the main panel; if necessary, trim the short edges of the patchwork section – trim the same amount from each end. For your panel, you might need to make a patchwork section with an extra row of squares. Fig 1.
OUTER PANELS
1. Securing the layers with temporary spray adhesive for fabric, layer the main panel backing fabric and wadding with the outer main panel; there should be an excess 1in of backing and wadding all around the outer main panel.
2. Quilt as desired; Judith stitched-in-theditch of the horizontal seams of the patchwork section, extending the lines across the width of the panel. If decorating the panel, this is the time to add your appliqué or other decoration; Judith added a fl ower, but you could add a motif of our choice or personalise with your initials. Trim away the excess backing and wadding.
3. Working in the same way, layer and quilt both side panels, but don’t embellish these panels.
POCKETS
1. For plain pockets, take each outer pocket piece and wrong sides together fold them in half widthways. Topstitch approx 1⁄4in down from the folded (top) edge. If you wish you could decorate the pocket with rickrack or a similar trim.
2. For pockets incorporating a patchwork section, for each pocket make a patchwork strip the width of the pockets. Judith was able to add a strip of four squares – as with the outer panel section, you may need to trim the ends of the strip so that it fi ts. Join the patchwork strip between the 10in and 3 3⁄4in outer pocket pieces. Fig 2.
3. Wrong sides together, fold each patchwork-section pocket piece in half widthways.; the patchwork section will be on the outside of the pocket. Topstitch approx 1⁄4in down from the folded (top) edge.
4. Judith made one plain and one patchwork pocket; the top of the patchwork pocket is elasticated.
5. Take one quilted side panel and the plain pocket. Matching up the bottom and side edges, place the pocket right side up on the right side of the side panel; machine tack in place.
6. Take the patchwork-section pocket and create a channel by topstitching a second line approx
1⁄2in below the fi rst line; Fig 3.
Fasten the small safety pin to one end of the piece of elastic and
thread it through the channel. Secure the elastic at the start end by
stitching across the end of the channel; Fig 4. Pull the elastic
to gather the top edge of the pocket and, before cutting off the excess
elastic, secure the elastic at the stop end by stitching across the end
of the channel; Fig 5.
7. Take the remaining quilted side panel and the elasticated pocket. Matching up the bottom corner and one side edge, place the pocket right side up on the right side of the side panel and machine tack this edge in place; Fig 6. Stretch the pocket over so the other bottom corner and side edges match up and machine tack this edge in place; Fig 7. Note that this panel won’t lie fl at.
MAKING THE COVER
1. Find the centre of one long side of the main panel also the centre of the top edge of one side panel.
2. Matching up the centre marks, place the panels right sides together. Fig 8.
3. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 for the other long side of the main panel and the second side panel. Note that at this stage the bottom of the side panels will overlap on top of the main panel. Fig 9.
4. Working on one side panel at a time, right sides together, curve the long edge of the outer panel around the top and side edges of the side panel. Pin to secure. Fig 10. Don’t worry if your side pieces are longer than the outer panel as any excess can be trimmed away later.
5. For each side panel, starting at one bottom corner, stitch up one side seam, along the top and then down the other side seam. At the corners, stop with the needle down, pivot the cover and then continue stitching.
6. Turn the cover right side out; if necessary, trim any excess wadding from the seams/corners, but take care not to cut into your stitches.
7. Repeat Steps 1–5 for the lining side and main panels. Leave the lining wrong side out.
FINISHING
1. Place the outer cover over your machine and then place the lining over the outer cover (right sides will be facing each other). Make sure that the corners of the outer cover and lining match up and then lift up your machine’s handle. Fig 11.
2. Pin through all of the layers at either end of the handle end, and also add pins to mark the width of the handle. Fig 12.
3. Carefully remove the cover from the machine. Place it so the top of the cover is as fl at as possible. Draw a line the length of the handle centrally between the marked width, then draw a line 1⁄4in all around this tocreate a rectangle and then mark diagonal lines from the inner line to the rectangle’s corners. Pin near the marked section to keep everything in place. Fig 13.
4. Stitching through all layers, sew on the lines of the outer rectangle (not on the inside lines). Cut along the marked central line and the diagonal lines – you need to cut up to the corners but take care not to snip into the stitches. Fig 14.
5. Remove the pins and then push the lining through the opening created for the handle. Fig 15.
6. Press the fabric fl at around the handle opening so that the lining fabric doesn’t show. From the right side, topstitch around the opening approx 1⁄4in away from the edge.
7. Put the cover back over your machine and if necessary trim off any excess lining along the bottom edges of the cover (make sure you tuck the lining fabric right up into the corners).
8. Machine tack along the bottom edges to keep all the layers together.
9. Measure all around the bottom edge of the cover and cut a 2 1⁄2in wide binding strip of this length plus a few inches for neatening (you might need to join lengths). Fold the strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Working from the right side, matching up the raw edges of the binding to the raw edges of the cover, sew the binding in place; before completing your stitching, neaten the short raw end of the starting piece and insert the ending piece into it.
10. Press the binding fl at and then turn it under to the lining side of the cover. Pin in place by pinning-in-the-ditch from the right side – check the pin position on the inside of cover to make sure the binding has been ‘caught’. Figs 16 and 17.
11. From the right side, stitch-in-theditch of the binding, starting and finishing with a reverse stitch. Fig 18.
12. ‘Pinch’ and pin the side and top seams of the cover. Using a jeans needle and a generous 1⁄4in allowance, topstitch down each side seam (use a few reverse stitches at both ends) and then topstitch the top seams; don’t try to sew the three adjacent seams as one continuous seam.
0 comments:
Post a Comment